July 16
We have miserable rain and cold, with a high today of 60
and a low of 48, and winds at 12 knots. We use our free marina day and sit.
That’s pay 2 days get the 3rd one free.
July 17
We leave today around 9 a.m. after fueling, hopefully for
the last time in Canada. We only needed 44 gallons to fill up, but at $5.35 a
gallon I will not miss the extra cost of boating in Canada. We paid $3.49 in
Norfolk so this is a 53% increase over U.S. prices. This is typical of the
extra cost of sailing Canada. We checked the cost of a pump out at the Bayfield
Marina and we were quoted $35. I refuse to comment on this particular cost.
We travel 20 n.m. to Beckwith Island and anchor in a ½
mile open spot in the island wall. Water depth drops from 200 feet deep to less
than 3 feet in a ½ mile. I will try the fishing later after the wind pipes
down. Weather forecast was for less than 10 knots waves ½ meter or less. We got the waves but wind piped up to 15 on
the nose and we decided to do the last 40 miles to McGregor Bay in the a.m.
We are in fifteen feet of water so clear we can see the
anchor on the bottom in the sand .Beckwith island is a native Indian island
totally uninhabited except for the boaters who visit. If you go ashore the cost
is $5 a person and $25 for a campsite of 4. I have not seen anyone collecting
the money yet, but it is Thursday and the toll takers may wait for the weekend. When we came in and found one other boat
anchored. Now 12 boats are here and it is 5 p.m.
July 18
We start at
7 a.m. for Macgregor Harbor our next anchorage. The Bay is called for S.W. winds 10 knots or
less and ½ meter waves. One hour into the trip we are in 15 knot winds and 1
meter waves. The waves are not a problem but the period is as bad as Pamlico
Sound from the N.E.. One hour later and we are calming as we get within 15
miles of the Bruce Peninsula. It continues to calm and we have no wind and
waves are down to minimal height.
We anchor
and until 5 p.m. we are the only boat there. Two small 20-25 foot sailboats
come in then to keep us company. On the way
over we get a look at a working schooner with what look like teenagers running
the sails.
July 19
The Bay goes
completely calm overnight and we wake to a boat covered with Mayflies, see
pictures below. We are back into
Montana sailing weather as the last week temperatures barley made 70 F. during the day but
easily saw 50F overnight. I was cleaning off the flies for 2 hours as
we moved on. We talked to a resident of Warner Bay where we are presently
anchored and they have not had them yet, but he recalls a Canadian town on Lake
Erie that the Mayflies annually are so thick they shut the street lights off in
the night.
We sailed
today with the enclosure completely shut as we were overcast 65F, and the wind
with the canvass open made it too cold to stand. As it was we were in
sweatshirts all day.
We saw lots
of interesting sights today; Depth sounder has not quit since we thought we
might have to replace it, and registered 569 foot of water at one point today. Interestingly
½ mile from that low depth we see the following Island to starboard.
Anchorages
are plentiful now and we use 3 in a row prior to a stop at Goderich, CA on our way to Port Huron. We even have to pass
an interesting one at Cabot Head called Winfield Harbor.
I tried some
pictures but they are not great. There is a hole in the granite that is wide
enough for a boat to enter into a ½ mile round interior area that runs to 15
foot depths. We did not go in as we still had 30 miles to go today but it is
definitely a place to hide in a storm.
you point toward the light house to find your opening
Cloudy day it is hard to see the water opening to left of sailboat masts
Finally a sailboat leaves as we pass.
We pull into
Warner Bay, which is a recommended anchorage according to the charts, and
decide lets go to the end and anchor in 12-15 foot of water. We get to a nice
spot and Alice puts the anchor off the roller for me to drop. I drop the anchor
and then go to reverse at idle to set the anchor. Something is wrong the anchor is not setting
and the boat is moving. Alice complains that I did not let the anchor settle in
enough. I am out of gear by this time trying to decide what next. Luckily I
look over the side, from the command bridge. Remember you can see bottom here
because the water is so clear, well the boulder looking back at me was bigger
than our boat. I tell Alice I am hauling anchor and why. We finally find some
sandy bottom on the south shore and put the hook down there. I also tied a
float to the anchor in case I need to pull it out with the dingy.
This brings
up another point. We were so comfortable when we left after checking insurance
coverage and unlimited Boat US towing.
We were never going to have extraneous costs. HA!!!
Tow boat is
not in Canada and has no reciprocal service with Canada. So bring a good dingy
and powerful outboard because that may be your only way to get to harbor. Makes
going over a lot of 5 foot channels much more interesting.
Speaking of
interesting, we forgot an item during our stop at Bobcaygeon. I will add this
in proper sequence after the trip is over but put it in here for now.
Bobcaygeon is renowned for the great number of marinas and rental companies
that rent house boats to the public to run through the locks at 32 and beyond.
They are given a 60 minute course which includes docking the boat once under
supervision and sent on their way. Well you can imagine the potential problems
that occur. Lock masters watch for them and try to help dock the boats and put
them through the locks. We were sitting on the anchor wall at Bobcaygeon
because the wind and rain made it unpleasant to move that day. BUT if you are a
houseboat whose rental is up you have to go. God was looking out for us because
for some reason we were on the boat not out walking when one 40 foot houseboat
came running the channel and decides to go to the wall in front of us. He loses
it and is now heading to us at full throttle. There is a lot of yelling which
brings me topside to mass confusion as I see the houseboat about to join us.
His whole family is on the bow trying to fend off as I get up on the side of
our boat. As I start to push I realize this guy has got the throttle in forward
so I yell reverse 10 or 20 times until he understands. He misses the hull by
less than an inch and now is heading for the lock gates. That brings out the
lock master to get this guy out of trouble. A single outboard engine runs these
boats and control in a following sea and wind is really tough.
July 20
The attack of the killer Mayflies was still
with us. The anchor light is too low compared to sail boats and is a magnet for
bugs. Once we leave the anchorage I let Alice drive and begin the 1 hour or
more of bug cleanup. Thankfully we have
a raw water wash down pump and spigot in the cockpit that a coiled 50 foot hose
attaches to easily and reaches the whole boat.
We leave the anchorage at 6:30 a.m. trying to see how far we can get in
case the weather changes. Canadian weather forecasts have us turning bad by Monday night and if we
stop as planned (Kincardine 62 NM, Goderich, 40NM and then Port Huron, 62 NM)
we need 3 good days of weather. I use some internet minutes to get the US
forecast and get good weather until Wednesday. Who to believe? We decide that
if today holds up we will push straight to Goderich and by doing so reduce the
total distance needed to run this course by 10 miles and one day. This is a straight line
run and for 2 hours all is well, then fog. I turn the radar on. I forgot we do
not have it on this boat.
The fog
starts off giving us ¼ to ½ mile visibility and stays that way for at least an
hour. By this time we are heading for the deep, 400 to 500 plus foot depths
again and colder water. The fog goes to pea soup and we cannot see past 1 boat
length. We run like this for ½ hour and I finally figure we need to do
something. We have the running lights on, put on life jackets and blow the horn
3 shorts every 3 minutes. We are not near the shipping lanes but are on a
direct path of other pleasure boaters heading to Tobermory or going our way to
Huron. They could be trapped in this as easily as we were. Finally we decide
that if cooler water brought denser fog we need to get to shallow water, say
200-300 foot depth to hopefully alleviate some of the problem. We detoured back
toward shore about 7 miles and then ran a parallel course to our previous
course. We started to see 200 foot water and eventually some relief. By noon
the fog was clearing up and by 2 p.m. the day was lovely at 70 degrees and
bright sun shine. It is almost like sailing the Caribbean when you look at the
water. We arrived at Goderich by 6:30 p.m. and go to the fuel dock first where
we give over $100 for 20 gallons of fuel so we really will not run out in the
middle of Huron and have to use the dinghy to get to shore. We pay for the dock
and fuel and we have 2- $20 Canadian bills left to exchange in the U.S. We get
our dock, clean the boat, grill some hot dogs, and see bed about 9:30.
July 21
We have a 60
mile run to Port Huron today and it again is a straight run for about 6.5
hours. A really nice day and we pick up the current from Port Huron about 10
miles out. When we reach the bridge the current is giving us a 4-5 knot boost
in speed for around 3 miles on either side of the bridge spanning Sarnia and
Port Huron.
The
interesting story is this drop in water level between Lake Huron and Lake
Sinclair is what caused early sailing vessels to be called upper lakes boats or
lower lakes boats. Once a boat dropped through the current here it could never
get enough speed up to go back to the upper lakes. At least that’s the story I
was told. I brought the Freedom 35 through this same spot going to Lake Huron
under power and barely had enough power to generate 1 knot of true over the
ground headway.
We settle in
the Black River in the Port of Huron. They have one dock master for the Port
that assigns transient slips at all the marinas. We go through 2 bridges to the
River street Marina and tie up.
We call customs upon arrival and after Alice
answers a few questions, she is informed that we are not in compliance. They
will come to the boat and inspect us. Until then we cannot leave the boat or
have anything delivered to the boat, or give someone something from the boat.
They arrived within the ½ hour looked at our papers and passports, asked a few
questions said we were fine and left. They were extremely nice so except for
waiting to do check in at the marina, it was not a problem. So we now have officially
left Canada.
We are tired and neither of us wants to cook
so we order a delivered Pizza. We have not had a pizza in over 4 months so we
looked forward to the treat.
We spend
several hours this night trying to find a spot to go to ground in front of the
weather system hitting the area. We have one more good day of weather then a
cold front hits and brings wind, rain, and thunder storms. All my anchorage
spots are on the Canadian side of the river so we cannot use them legally,
although when we previously sailed Lake Erie that never stopped us. But after the
customs check in I think we will forego living dangerously, while in comingled
waters.
We cannot
find a place to hide and go to bed thinking we will lose a day of good weather
and just stay here. After all they have $.35 cent bus fares to see the city and
shop.
July 22
Four a.m. and
I check weather, no changes. We really would like to move with the light wind
forecast. I systemically go to Active Captain and Navionics charts where
marinas are listed and try to find a cheap 2-3 day hole to hide in. It is
harder than you think. All the great marinas are in downtown Detroit and are
now gated communities. You are asked not to leave the establishment for your own
protection. I hate paying to be at anchor. Finally I see a place 60 miles away
that is in a nice neighborhood, and has the basic prerequisite, CHEAP.
We left the Black river this a.m. with 2-3
knots of current running with us. The current held 2 knots for over 20 miles so
we hit the Detroit River earlier than we thought we would.
We arrive in
a tumult. We have run 5 days with the depth sounder giving us no problems.
Today we start the same old problems again with the sounder needing to be turned
off and on. I did it once in the St. Clair Lake and when it came on the GPS
said we were in Detroit. We cannot run effectively with both units down.
Finally the GPS gives a true reading and we finish the day without depth. Staring
to think the real problem is the software.
The marina
is what you would think for $1 a day and found. Docks are 50 year old concrete
with 4”x4” posts for free board catchers. Manager is a one person show who just
happens to be out for an hour or two when we arrive. That’s okay; he called the
neighboring boats to help us dock. Really not a bad place after you get used to
the older docks. We will sight see tomorrow as the weather has us stopped for
at least Wednesday.
Here is the
a.m. official forecast for Lake Erie:
TODAY WEST
WINDS 10 TO 20 KNOTS BECOMING NORTHWEST THEN NORTH. SHOWERS AND
THUNDERSTORMS EARLY...THEN A CHANCE OF SHOWERS AND THUNDERSTORMS LATE
THIS MORNING. WAVES 1 TO 3 FEET BUILDING TO 2 TO 4 FEET. TONIGHT NORTH
WINDS 10 TO 20 KNOTS. WAVES 3 TO 5 FEET. THURSDAY
NORTH WINDS 10 TO 20 KNOTS DIMINISHING TO 5 TO 15 KNOTS. WAVES 3 TO
5 FEET SUBSIDING TO 1 TO 3 FEET. THURSDAY NIGHT
NORTH WINDS 10 KNOTS OR LESS BECOMING SOUTHWEST. WAVES 2 FEET OR
LESS.
Lake Erie is unforgiving in a blow so we will wait.
Our final destination is 35nm away. Brands Marina in Port Clinton,
OH has given us a good rate to leave the boat for 2-3 weeks and head home to
take care of Dr.appointments, medication refills, and try to get my braces off.
We do not know our schedule yet as the weather is in control.